Das Lederlexikon von A-Z
A-B • C-D • E-F • G-H • I-J • K-L • M-N • O-P • Q-R • S-T • U-V • W-X • Y-Z
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| Altgegerbt – Ein in langer Gerbdauer hergestelltes rindengegerbtes Sohlleder. Meistens wird Eichenrinde eingesetzt. Es kommen aber auch andere Rinden (in Österreich und in der Schweiz z. B. Fichtenrinde) zur Verwendung. |
| Anilingefärbt und Anilinzugerichtet – Im Faß oder anderweitig durchgefärbtes Leder, ohne Pigment-Schlußaufstrich (siehe auch Semi-Anilin-Leder), teiweise wird der Begriff auch für Leder verwendet, dessen Oberfläche anilingespritzt ist oder bei dem mit der Walzendruckmaschine eine leichte Pigmentierung aufgebracht wurde. |
| Antikleder – Das Leder hat durch Pressen ein Aussehen nach altem Stil erhalten. Es ist meist zweifarbig oder Ton in Ton gefärbt. |
| ASA-Leder – In Deutschland und Österreich gebräuchliche Abkürzung für überwiegend chromgegerbtes Rindleder zur Herstellung von Arbeiterschutzartikeln (ASA). |
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| Baby-Calf – Kalbleder aus leichten, kleinen Fellen mit einem glatten oder fein gekrispelten Narben ohne Prägung. Der Finish ist mehr oder weniger glänzend und wird durch Glanzstoßen oder Bügeln erreicht. |
| Biberlamm – Schaf- oder Lammfell mit kurzer, feiner Wolle. Das Fell wird in der Wolle gegerbt, gefärbt und so zugerichtet, daß die Wolle einen wetterbeständigen Glanz erhält (siehe Scherling). |
| Blankleder - Naturelles oder gefärbtes, lohgares Rindleder der leichteren Gewichtsklassen. Es ist mäßig gefettet und manchmal gewachst. Im Gegensatz zu Geschirrleder (siehe dort) wird es meist nach Fläche verkauft. |
| Blösse - Häute und Felle, bei denen zur Vorbereitung der Gerbung Haar oder Wolle, Epidermis und anhaltendeFleischteile entfernt wurden. In der Pelzveredlung wird das Fell mit Haar- oder Wollkleid als Blöße bezeichnet. |
| Borkeleder - Leder, das nach der Gerbung nicht weiter bearbeitet wurde. |
| Boxkalb, Boxcalf – Glattes Kalbleder, schwarz und farbig, vollchromgegerbt, auch gekrispelt. In England ist Boxcalf traditionell schwarz. Andersfarbig wird es “willow calf” genannt. |
A-B • C-D • E-F • G-H • I-J • K-L • M-N • O-P • Q-R • S-T • U-V • W-X • Y-Z
Lexicon of leather from A-Z
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| Aniline dyed – Leather that has been through-dyed by immersion in a dyebath and has not received any coating of pigmented finish. In Germany the termm is also applied to leather which has been surface aniline dyed only by spraying or other means. |
| Aniline stained – Leather that has been stained by brushing, padding or spraying and has not received any coating of pigmented finish. Germany does not differentiate between “dyeing” and “staining”. |
| Antelope -a) A fine, soft leather with velvety, lustrous nap, made from antelope or gazelle skin sueded on the flesh side or sometimes, in the case of antelope, frized on the grain side.b) In the shoe and handbag trades sometimes used to describe a dyed reindeer sueded on the frized grain side.In Germany the term is often applied incorrectly to suede leather. |
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| Baby calf – Calf skin leather made from small, light-weight skins with a smooth or finely boarded grain surface, free from any artificial surface pattern. The finish is more or less glossy and is produced by glazing, ironing or plating. |
| Bellows leather – Leather which is either light or air proof for fire, organ, camera bellows etc. Some countries distinguish between lightproof and airproof types; others have the same term. |
| Bend – Half of a cattle hide butt, obtained by dividing it along the line of the backbone. |
| Box calf – Full chrome tanned calf leather, black or coloured, smooth or boarded. |
| Buckskin – Suede leather made from deer skin from which the grain has been removed, usually by frizing. It is generally tanned with fish oil or formaldehyde or a combination of both and may be finished on the flesh or the frized grain side. |
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| Chamois -a) Leather made from the flesh of sheep or lamb skin, or from sheep or lamb skin from which the grain has been removed by frizing and tanned by processes involving the oxidation of fish or marine animal oils in the skin, using either solely such oils (Full oil chamois) or firstly, formaldehyde and then such oils (Combination chamois).In Germany the term “Sämischleder” is applied to an oil tanned suede leather made from sheep, lamb, roedeer, red deer, chamois, goat and kid skins and cattle hide splits.
b) Leather made from the skin of the mountain antelope or chamois but such leather is rare. |
| Chrome tanned - Leather tanned either solely with chromium salts or with chromium salts together with quite small amounts of some other tanning agent used merely to assist the chrome-tanning process, and not in sufficiant amount to alter the essential chrome tanned character of leather. |
| Combination tannes - Leather tanned by two or more tanning agents, e.g. chrome. followed by vegetable (Chrome retan), vegertable, followed by chrome (Semi-chrome), formaldehyde, followed by oil (Combination oil). |
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| Dressed leather - Leather which has been processed (other than by oiling and rolling in the case of sole leather) beyond the simply tanned or crust state and which may or may not be ready for use.In Germany “zugerichtetes Leder” is in every case ready for use. |
| Drumskin - Shaved or buffed, smooth unsplit sheep, goat, calf or ass skin, limed and dried out without application of any tanning agent. |
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| Elk -a) Leather made from real elk skin resembles Buckskin.
b) Stout, rugged cattle hide upper specially dressed to have a pliability and waterproofness suitable for work, casual and sports footwear. |
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| Fat tanned - Hide or skin which has been converted into leather by treatments involving the incorporation of soft animal fats which undergo chemical changes in contact with the fibre, leading to fixation of fatty matter. |
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| Glazing - The operation of producing a bright, glossy or glasslike finish on the grain surface of leather by subjecting it to the action of a machine which rapidly draws, under pressure, a tool of glass, agate or other suitable material across the suitably prepared surface of the leather. |
| Goat skiver - The tanned grain split of a goat skin. |
| Grain leather - Leather which has the grain layer substantially intact and is finished on the grain side. |
| Grain split - The outer (wool or hair) layer of a hide or skin that has been split into two or more layers |
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| Hair sheep - Type of sheep bearing heir instead of wool. The leather has a finer and tighter grain than that from a woolled sheep. |
| Half back -a) Part of a half raw cattle hide (or side) after removal of the belly. It corresponds in area to the bend with half shoulder with or without the cheek.
b) Leather made from a) |
| Hard grain goat - Goatskin leather with a characteristic pinhead grain pattern, produced by hand boarding, after glazing, in a damp condition in at least four directions. Vegetable tanned.In Germany also combination tanned and especially sumac tanned. |
| Harness leather - A strong, flexible, curried, cattlehide, grain leather with a plain finish, usually having a thickness of 4 to 6 mm.In Germany see also “Blankleder”. |
| Hide -a) The outer covering of a mature or fully-grown animal of the larger kind, e.g. cattle and horse; also camels, elephants and whales.
In Germany it applies to cattle, horse, pigs, reptiles, fishes and birds. b) Leathers made from a) which have not been split, or from the grain split; when used in this way the name of the animal or the type of leather may be added, e.g. cow hide or ox hide, bag hide or case hide. In Germany the word “Haut” is not applied to tannes material. |
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| Impregnated leather - Leather, which by means of the addition of materials such as grease, wax and/or impregnating resins, etc. has been improved in certain of its properties without thereby losing its typical leather characteristics. |
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| Kid - When applied to upper leather, a full chrome leather made from kid or goar skin. The only exceptions to this are gold and silver kid, which may be semi-chrome tanned. |
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| Lamb skin -a) The outer covering of a young ovine animal before removal the wool.
b) Leather made therefrom, used principally for clothing and gloving purposes. |
| Leather - A general term for hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible. The hair or wool may or may not have been removed. Leather is also made from a hide or skin which has been plit into layers or segmented either before or after tanning, but if the tanned hide or skin is disintegrated mechanically and/or chemically into fibrous particles, small pieces or powders and then, with or without the combination of a binding agent, is made into sheets or other forms, such sheets or forms are not leather. |
| Levelled bend - Sole leather bend which has been split or shaved to give an even substance over the area of the finished bend. It is more flexible than a manufacturing bend. |
| Lining leather - Leather used for the linings of shoe uppers, handbags and other leather goods. |
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| Mineral tanned - Leather that has been tanned with mineral salts such as aluminium, chrome or zirconium salts. |
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| Nappa - Soft, full grain gloving or clothing leather made from unsplit sheep, lamb, goat or kid skins. It is usually tanned with alum and chromium salts and dyed throughout its substance.In Germany also made from side leather for footwear and leather goods purposes. |
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| Parchment - Translucent or opaque material with a smooth surface suitable for writing, bookbinding and other purposes. It is made from thin skins of sheep, goat, calf, pig or ass, by drying out the limed material without applying any tannage, the material being thoroughly cleansed, degreased and smoothed during the process.In Germany the term “Pergamentleder” is used in a wider sense and may be produced from any type of hide or skin; when produced from buffalo hides it is known as “Transparentleder” and is similar to Raw hide. |
| Pigskin -a) The raw skin of the domestic pig.
In Germany the definition also covers the skin of the wild pig. b) Leather made from the above. The term is not to be applied to leather made from the flesh split of a pig skin. |
| Pneumatic skiver -a) In U.K. a sheepskin grain split usually with an aniline finish but sometimes with a soft rubber or synthetic resin finish used for certain musical instruments.
b) The term is also used for a type of bellows laether made from a sheepskin grain splt and used in particular for camera bellows. |
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| Raw hide - A hide which has only been treated to preserve it prior to tanning. |
| Russet linings - Russet-coloured vegetable tanned lining leather. |
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| Sheepskin -a) The outer covering of an ovine animal before removal of the wool or hair.
b) An unsplit sheep skin leather. The term is not to be applied to skivers. |
| Shoulder -a) The fore part of a cattle hide covering the shoulders and the neck of the animal, with or without the head. A squared shoulder is obtained by cutting off the head.
b) Leather made from a) |
| Side - Half of a whole hide with offal (head, shoulder and belly) attached, obtained by diving it along the line of the backbone. |
| Skin -a) A general term for the outer covering of an animal.
b) In the strict sense, the outer covering of an animal of the smaller kinds, e.g. sheep and goats; or of the immature animals of the larger species, e.g. calves and colts. In most countries pigs, reptiles, birds and fish are included under “skins”, but in Germany they are included under “Hides”. c) Leather made from a) and b), which has not been split or from the grain split. In Germany the word “Fell” is not applied to tanned material. d) The skin of a fur-bearing animal, dressed and finished with the hair on. |
| Skiver - The tanned outer or grain split of a sheep or lamb skin. Sometimes applied to goatskin.
In Germany the term is also used for the grain split of a raw sheep pelt. |
| Split - If a hide or skin is split over its wholearea into several layers, this process is termed “splitting”. |
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| Tanning - The processing of perishable raw hides and skins by the use of tanning materials into the permanent and imputrescible form of leather. |
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| Upper leather - Leather produced for the outside upper part of footwear. |
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| Vegetable tanned - Leathers tanned exclusively with vegetable tanning agents or with such materials together with small amounts of other agents used merely to assist the tanning process oto to improve or modify the leather, and not in sufficient amounts to alter notably the essential vegetable character of the leather. |
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| Waterproof leather - Water-resistant leather which is thoroughly impervious to the penetration of water. |
| White hide leather - Alum and salt tanned cattle hide suitable for the manufacture of laces for industrial purposes. |
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